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How To Handle Puppy Teething Troubles

When most people bring home their cute new puppies, the furthest thing from their minds is the stressful time of teething. Just as with babies teething, puppies will want to chew on everything they can get their mouth on. This can lead to total destruction of your belongings, but there are tried and true ways to help prevent this from happening, and help you and your pup get through the teething period with ease.

Many people bring home their new pup and leave them out to romp around the house when they're not home. Inevitably, this leads to chewing on shoes, books, socks, the couch, and any number of other things. The best way to prevent destructive chewing is to crate train your dog. To do this, you will need a crate that is just big enough for your dog to turn around in. Make the crate a safe and happy place for your dog. Provide him with stimulating toys while he is in the crate. Crate training your dog will not only prevent destructive chewing, but will also aid in potty training and create a positive and safe environment for your dog to be when you're not around. Some people think that keeping a dog in a crate when they're not around is cruel. This is not the case at all. Dogs by nature like small, darkened places and tend to feel very safe in crates. Almost all dog trainers today believe that crate training is a necessary and positive part of your puppy's development. If your dog is crated while you are not home, they will not have the opportunity to chew on your belongings and other harmful things such as power cords.

The next most important thing to teach your dog when he is teething is which toys are his and what is off limits. Purchase good things to chew on such as Kong toys or Bully Sticks. Kongs are made of tough rubber and can be filled with goodies such as peanut butter or cheese. They are excellent chew toys and wonderful for the teething period. Bully Sticks are 100% natural and 100% digestible dog chews that are low in fat and great for your dog to chew on. Other chew toys that could be used are Nylabones which are made out of solid hard plastic and have bumps on them to soothe teething gums or other toys made of hard rubber or plastic. Reinforce which toy is for your dog by giving him his chew toy and saying something like, "Here is your toy, good boy!" If your dog chooses something that he is not to chew on, take it away and replace it with one of his chew toys repeating, "This is your toy, good boy!" With persistence, he will learn what is his to chew on and what he is not to chew on.

Another important thing to train your dog during the teething period is bite inhibition. In packs of dogs, the mother or other dogs would teach this to the pups, but in a home situation, it is up to you. Teething puppies will put their mouths on you and you must teach them at an early age that this is not acceptable. Just as mentioned above, every time they exhibit mouthing behavior, you must redirect them to an acceptable chew toy. Another important factor in bite inhibition and limiting mouthing behavior is proper socialization. It is very important in this stage to take your dog to a puppy class or puppy play group. Many good trainers offer these services. When allowed to play with other pups, your dog will learn what is acceptable play behavior. The other dogs will help your dog to learn that biting is not appropriate. You must also socialize your dog to many different kinds of people and situations. This will help your dog to not be afraid of new things and will significantly lower the potential for biting.

By following the above advice as well as the advice of your veterinarian, you can rest assured that the teething period will be a positive learning period for you and your puppy.

Information On Spaying Or Neutering Your Puppy

Despite the obvious and much-documented benefits that come from the spaying and neutering America's dog population, there are those pet owners who still harbor some reservations about the whole process. Is the necessary surgery risky? Will the dog become lethargic and fat as a result? Will the dog be depressed? A little research into the procedures and effects of spaying or neutering will allay the fears of most dog owners and some may even be pleasantly surprised to find that their dog will actually benefit from the procedure for years to come.

What is Spaying and Neutering?

The terms "spaying" and "neutering" are used to describe those medical procedures performed on a dog in order to render it unable to reproduce. "Spaying" is used in reference to female dogs, while "neutering" is used when referring to a male.

When a female dog is spayed, the uterus and ovaries are removed. This prevents the dog from going into heat. When a male dog is neutered, the testicles are removed. Both procedures are done by veterinarian in a surgical environment. If there are no complications, then the dog can usually go home on the same day that the procedure is done.

The Community-Related Benefits of Spaying or Neutering Your Dog

The overpopulation of unwanted, domestic animals has become a huge problem in America. Animal shelters are overflowing with pets for which there are no homes and packs of homeless dogs can pose a health and safety hazard to the general public. Each year, over 4 million unwanted dogs and cats have to be euthanized (killed in a human manner) and that number is steadily growing. These unwanted animals don't just materialize from out of nowhere, however. They are the products of pets that were never taken in to be spayed or neutered by their owners.

For some dog owners, not having their pet spayed or neutered is simply a matter of laziness. They keep meaning to take their pet in, but time slips away; and, before they know it, their male dog has impregnated the dog next door or their female dog is expecting a litter of puppies. For other dog owners, the reasons for not having a dog fixed may be financial. Any surgical procedure, even for a pet, can be expensive. There are, however, low-cost spaying and neutering programs available. Check with your local humane society for information on qualifying for and utilizing them.

The Health and Behavioral Benefits of Spaying or Neutering Your Dog

Any risks associated with the surgical spaying and neutering procedures are far outweighed by the long-term health and behavioral benefits. In female dogs, the most obvious benefit is that there will be no litters of puppies and none of the health risks associated with that process. If your dog is spayed before she ever goes into heat, then the risk of her ever developing mammary tumors (malignant or benign) is almost completely erased. Furthermore, her risk of developing any reproductive organ cancers and infections (uterine and ovarian cancers or uterine infections) is obviously reduced significantly as well. If you wait until after her first heat cycle to have her spayed, then her chances of developing some of these conditions is almost doubled.

Without the mood swings, yelping and howling that a heat cycle brings on, your female dog will experience less stress. You'll also experience less stress by not having to deal with blood-stained carpet, bedding or furniture.

Your male dog will also enjoy many health benefits if you have him neutered. As with the female dog, if the neutering procedure is done early (before 6 months of age) the chances that your dog will develop reproductive-related cancer (i.e. penile cancer) or disease is just about cut in half. The danger of your dog getting struck by a car while in pursuit of a breeding partner is also eliminated.

Early neutering can also help control or altogether eliminate certain behavior in the male dog. Behaviors such as spraying, marking and the desire to run away are very much linked to a dog's hormones. Without such hormone production, your dog is less likely to develop these behaviors. Neutering your male dog could also render him easier to handle in social situations where other dogs are present. He will be less likely to show aggression toward other male dogs and will not be compelled to try and breed with an available female, even if she is in heat.

Puppy Mills, Pet Stores, Shelters and Breeders

There are many ways to acquire a new dog and some methods are definitely better than others. Puppy mills, pet stores, shelters and dog breeders are the most common sources of new pets for most people. Carefully examine the nature of each of these venues before buying a dog.

Puppy Mills

The term "puppy mill" refers to any breeding facility that breeds dog for profit only. Very little attention is paid to the animals and breed standards are not held to. In the worst of the puppy mills, dogs are stacked up in cages, are underfed and given very little medical care. The dogs are continually bred, heat cycle after heat cycle, giving the female dog little or no time to recover before she is impregnated once again. The conditions under which these dogs are kept and bred often produce dogs with minor to major behavioral and medical problems. Not all puppy mills are large facilities.

Even the "backyard breeder" who breeds dogs only for profit and not for the benefit of the breed is considered by many to be a puppy mill. The prices you'll pay to a puppy mill may be less than what you would have paid for a dog from a reputable breeder, but you may end up paying more in the long run anyway. Dogs from puppy mills are usually plagued with medical problems (resulting from a lack of proper medical care and malnutrition) that require an excessive amount of medical exams, shots and medication.

Pet Stores

No trip to the mall would be complete without a walk through the pet store, right? All of those cute little puppies, so excited to see you! It's a miracle that anyone ever makes it out of a pet store without taking one of those cuties home with them. The animals from a pet store might appear to be well cared for and the store's staff may vouch for the health and quality of their inventory, but the truth is usually something entirely different. The only source of dogs for today's pet store is the puppy mill. No reputable breeder would allow his or her dog to be displayed and sold in such a manner, so what other kind of breeder is left?

Shelters

If you don't really care about the breed of a dog and are simply looking for a companion animal, your local animal shelter is a great place to begin your search. Dogs of all ages and sizes are available. Many shelters allow you to play with a dog and spend some time with it before you make the final decision as to whether or not you want to adopt it - they want to make sure the fit is just right! For an adoption fee, you'll get a new dog that has been fixed, vaccinated and injected with a microchip.

Breeders

Reputable breeders are the best option if you're looking for a purebred puppy. A reputable breeder is one who works for the benefit of the breed, not for profit and who cares where his or her puppies end up. Expect to be questioned about your plans for the dog and don't be surprised if, after a conversation or two, the breeder decides that your home would not be the best one for their dog.

If you are approved by the breeder, you will probably have to sign some sort of contract in which you agree to: immediately spay or neuter a dog bought for companion purposes only; notify the breeder of any medical conditions that the dog develops; notify the breeder if you have to get rid of the dog so that he or she can find it a new home; and, breed your dog (if that's why you're buying it) in accordance with breed standards. The actual contract might include other stipulations as well.

This may seem a bit stringent, but the breeder is only trying to ensure the health and well-being of the animal. A pet you buy from a responsible, reputable breeder can be very expensive, but you'll know that your new addition to the family is as healthy as he can be and free of genetic defects. Where do you find a reputable breeder? Once you decide on the breed that's right for you, check with the relevant local and national breed clubs. They will be able to recommend a breeder in your area.

Making Your Home Puppy Proof

Puppies are super cute and so much fun to have around. They are filled with energy and curious about everything around them. It is your job as a responsible pet owner to puppy proof your house to make it safe from them and to protect your belongings.

The first thing you should do when puppy proofing your house is to go room to room on your hands and knees. Look at the things in your home from your puppy's perspective. Think about what is at that level that may be interesting to him. You may be surprised to find many things that are potentially dangerous that you never even thought of before.

One thing you should be aware of in your household is the location of electrical cords. Make sure to limit your puppy's access to these areas. Puppies can chew through cords and get electrocuted causing serious injury or even death. Wrap cords up and store them away or lay down rubber or plastic runners that can be purchased at most home supply stores.

Another potentially dangerous thing for puppies is your stairs. Small puppies have a hard time navigating up and down stairs and could fall down them and injure themselves. Stairs also lead to areas in your house that may be off limits. The best way to ensure that your puppy stays away from the stairs is to purchase baby gates, available at most department and pet supply stores.

Just as curious toddlers are, puppies are very curious about what is inside cabinets. Many people store cleaning supplies and personal care products in cabinets that can be accessible to puppies. These kinds of products contain harmful ingredients that can injure or kill your puppy. Make sure to either store these products in cabinets that are out of reach to puppies, or purchase plastic cabinet locks that are available at most department and pet supply stores.

Be aware of small objects that are located around the home, on coffee tables and other surfaces that are accessible to your puppy. Just as with small children, puppies can choke on items like coins, needles, jewelry and small toys. Make sure to keep these kinds of items out of your puppy's reach.

Puppies seem to be attracted to shoes and socks. They love to chew on them. Not only will this ruin your favorite shoes, if a puppy were to chew on and swallow a shoelace or a sock, it could get wrapped around their intestines causing serious injury or death. Make sure to store your shoes and socks out of reach of your puppy, and NEVER encourage them to chew on these items, no matter how cute it may be.

Always limit your puppy's access to the bathroom. Bathroom garbage is very tempting to chew on. If your dog were to swallow some dental floss or feminine products, this could be very harmful to them. Puppies also are curious about toilets. Small pups could fall in an open toilet and drown. Make sure to keep your bathroom door shut at all times, or install a baby gate at the entrance to your bathroom. The same can be said for the kitchen and kitchen garbage.

Open windows are another potential hazard to your puppy. Being very curious about the world around them, they could easily fall out of a window causing serious harm or death. On the ground floor, they could exit out of the window and get lost or run into the street. Be mindful of open windows when you are not directly supervising your puppy.

House plants are another concern when it comes to puppies. Most dogs are very attracted to plants and many household plants are toxic to animals and can cause nausea, vomiting, and in some cases, death. Always make sure to keep house plants away from your puppy's reach.

The best way to puppy proof your house is to crate train your puppy right away. You are providing him with a safe place to go whenever he wants to as well as a place to be safely contained when you are not able to directly supervise him. If you need more information about puppy proofing your home, consult your veterinarian or pet professional.

Puppy Hints

So you got a new puppy, now what? Do you know what kind of puppy you have? Playful? Protective? Outgoing? Shy? Well whatever puppy you have you can use these helpful puppy hints to connect with your new member of the family.

Just remember that if you want your new puppy to obey, respect, and love you then you need to never ever hurt your puppy. Your new puppy needs to feel safe and secure and if you hit him to punish him he will be to scared to obey you, which could lead to other behavior problems like house breaking. Make sure your children are not hitting the puppy too because he is more likely to bite you or them in self defense if you hit him.

Reinforce your puppies' good behavior. Praise and treats are always a good way to do just that. Good behavior such as peeing outside, sitting when told to, no barking in the house, etc. Food is a good motivator also. Puppies learn more easily when food is involved because it is more satisfying then toys at that point. Use part of their daily intake so as to not over feed your new puppy, therefore keeping your new dog healthy while training him. If you need to punish your puppy do not yell, use a lack of attention. Puppies thrive on attention so when you don't pay attention to them that is more then punishment enough.

House train your new puppy as soon as possible. Be consistent! Patience is an absolute must! Your puppy needs time to learn so remember accidents happen. Make sure your puppy socializes. This is important because you can have a well-behaved puppy if you get him into some proactive socializing early on. Your puppies' most impressionable period, just like children, is when they are young, birth to sixteen weeks. So make sure you are doing all you can to help acclimate your dog to society.

Make sure you handle your puppy every day. Such as brushing, baths, toenails being clipped, ear cleaning are just a few. Also examining and brushing your puppies' teeth should be on your list of dos for a healthy dog. Your ultimate goal is to have your puppy comfortable and have him look forward to being handled by you or your children. A stressed out dog is no fun for you or the dog, so make sure your puppy gets used to the attention. Make sure you use treats to praise your pup for good behavior during this time, and be gentle, the respond to kindness and tender care more so then harsh words.

Start training your dog not to bite early on in life. Have your whole household be part of this training. It is natural for a dog to want to bite; they have done it since the beginning of time. But it only takes some simple steps to keep your puppy playful but not dangerous. Try playing with your pooch, getting him to bite you, when he does it to hard say ouch! really loud and let it startle him. Stop playing with him for a few minutes and then start over until he learns to play nicely with out hurting you or your children. After practicing this for a few weeks your pup should be thinking that humans couldn't stand the touch of teeth at all.

Teaching your new puppy what is ok and not ok to chew on is very important. You would like to keep your good shoes good right? Well make sure you teach your pup the ways of your household. Ensuring a happy puppy and happy owner. When you catch him chewing on something he isn't supposed to, face it you will, say loudly NO! Startle him into not chewing on that item. Hand him a chew toy to chew on instead. Praise him for chewing on his toy and he will be more then happy to chew it into oblivion.

Just remember to give your puppy lots of love. They need it to grow up happy, healthy, and obedient

Selecting Your Golden Puppy

Once you have decided on a breeder that you can trust, you’ll need to start thinking about what type of puppy you want. This decision could take you some time, as it can be quite a few weeks or even months before the right litter is whelped - although it will be worth the wait. If your breeder has a few litters available when you look for your Golden puppy, you may be able to compare.

Some breeders may require that you put a deposit down on the puppy of your choice, if the puppies aren’t a certain number of weeks old. The good litters rarely go unsold, as most are already spoken for before the puppies are seven weeks old. If you want to get in on a good litter, your best bet is to get to your breeder early - before all of the puppies are sold.

When you arrive to get your puppy, you shouldn’t be alarmed if the breeder does the selecting for you. Most quality breeders will spend quite a bit of time with the puppies and they will know just what their individual temperaments are. The better breeders however, will do temperament tests to determine the temperament of the puppies they have with each and every litter.

By performing these tests, the breeder will get assistance in selecting which puppy goes to which type of home. If you’ve chosen one of the better breeders, you should let him do his work and help you select the puppy that he or she thinks will be your best match. Breeders can obviously select you a better puppy, as they have been around the litter for several weeks - and you have only been around the litter looking at them for a few minutes.

Although all Golden puppies are appealing to the eyes, you need to base your reasons on more than looks. Before you pick your puppy up, you should always make sure that he has a strong build, with straight legs. The puppy should be strong and muscular, yet be squirmy and active when you first try to pick him up. You should also make sure that he has healthy teeth and gums, and look over the rest of his body to make sure that he is healthy.

If your breeder does allow you to select your puppy from the litter, then you should take the puppies that you are considering to get away from the remainder of the litter and observe each one carefully, and how they react to you. Puppies that are around 7 weeks of age should be apt to explore their surroundings. Even though they may be a little cautious at first, the puppies should still be more than anxious to look around and sniff their surroundings.

When you single out the puppies, make sure you speak to the ones you are interested in and see how they react to your voice. Try moving around and playing with them, and see how they respond to you. Some puppies will be faster than others, although you shouldn’t pursue any interest in a puppy that doesn’t show any interest in moving objects or their surroundings.

If you take your time and evaluate each puppy that you are interested in, you can find the best puppy for you and your family. Golden Retriever puppies are great to have, providing you get one that’s healthy. Getting a healthy puppy should be your desire - as a healthy puppy will grow into a strong and healthy adult - and be around for years to come.

Buying A Golden Puppy

We all know that Golden Retrievers are beautiful, obedient, and make great family pets and hunting dogs. Golden’s also make great guide dogs for the blind, narcotic detection dogs, and even tracking dogs for finding missing people. Although there are many other dog breeds out there, Golden Retrievers remain one of the most versatile and most astonishing breeds that you can get.

Before you rush out and buy a Golden Retriever puppy, you should first take the time to learn a bit more about the breed. You can attend dog shows, meet with various owners of Golden Retrievers, and even go to your local kennel club. Most people who own Golden Retrievers are extremely proud of them and will be more than happy to share their enthusiasm with you.

When you buy you’re Golden Retriever puppy, it’s always a great idea to buy from a backyard breeder or local puppy mill. Backyard breeders are normally the best way to get a Golden puppy, as they know and care a lot about the breed in general. Although you can always go to a reputable breeder, backyard breeders aren’t just in it for the money - they actually care about their dogs and want you to get the best Golden possible.

You can also visit the Golden Retriever Club of America and their local member clubs, as they can supply you with a list of breeders in your area. If these breeders don’t have any Golden’s for sale themselves, they will be more than willing to help you find what you’re looking for. This way, you can get a Golden from a very reliable source.

Whatever you do, you should never rush into buying a Golden Retriever. You should always take your time, and have a little bit of patience. When you buy your puppy, you want a healthy puppy who will grow up to be a fine testament of the breed. By taking your time and making a careful decision, you can save yourself a lot of time and money later on down the road.

Golden puppies that are poor quality, are normally produced by breeders who just want to have a litter or breeders who are just looking for the profits and care very little about giving thoughts to looks, quality, or temperament. If you buy a puppy from either of these breeders, you’ll more than likely end up with a puppy who has poor health, poor temperaments, and even disqualifications in breed.

When you get your puppy, you should always think long term. Only buy from a quality breeder, and you shouldn’t have anything to worry about. Always remember that you aren’t just buying a Golden Retriever puppy - you are buying a companion and a friend for life.

Puppy Potty Training Strategies

The main thing people train a puppy for is potty training. This training isn't neglected, if they let the puppy in the house, which many people do. Puppies at the least need to be kept in a closed back porch to be protected from the weather.

When your new puppy is exploring his home, he'll stop and relieve himself on the spot and keep investigating afterward. You don't want to find these deposits all over the house. The solution is puppy potty training. He has to be taught where it is proper to relieve himself.

One method is to train him to go do his business outside, When training take your puppy outside and to the same spot. He'll learn to associate that spot with going potty. While potty training your puppy don't play with him outdoors. Let him think of the outdoors as the place to potty and nothing else during the training period. Keep him outside around ten minutes.

Getting a crate for your puppy will come in handy when you can't oversee what your puppy is doing. When you put your puppy in the crate you use a command, consistently use the same one. Give him a treat. Dogs like to keep their den unsoiled and your puppy won't want to soil his den. Your puppy may whine when you put him in his crate. But he will adjust to his crate and this stops pottying in the living room while you're cooking dinner. Don't leave your puppy in his crate for a long time. Take him out of the crate often to go potty.

Since you don't want to leave your puppy in his crate too much and you need to do various chores and activities around the house—you need another way to keep watch over your puppy. Try securing his leash to your waist, while you work around the house. This is a way to keep an eye on your pet, which is essential to potty training.

When you are potty training your puppy give him praise when he relieves himself outdoors and sometimes give him a treat. These rewards will encourage your puppy to behave the way you want him to behave. They will make him happy and easier to train.

Potty training for your puppy takes diligence on your part and he needs the persistent training. The essential times to take your puppy outside to relieve himself are after he eats, wakes up from sleeping, when he drinks, and when you let him out of his crate. Another time to take him outside to potty is after you play with him for awhile. The exercise may stimulate his bowels.

Puppy potty training is important for puppies that will be house dogs or in the house a lot. Even if your puppy will be mostly an outside dog, it is best to have him inside when he is small so potty training is necessary. Your puppy will want to please you. Train him well with rewards and you'll both be happier.

The Right Toys for Teething Puppy

Your puppy's teeth will start coming in when he is about 3 or 4 weeks old and when he is eight weeks old, he'll have 28 teeth. All of these teeth breaking through his gums is painful and he'll want to chew something to ease his pain.



One of the best toys for puppies is a teething toy. When they are teething puppies definitely chew a lot and a puppy teething toy helps to ease your puppy and you through this stage of his development. Some puppy teething toys are very good for easing the pain your puppy feels while teething. One that works well is the wet and freeze type teething toy. An example of these toys is the rope toy, though it is a good teething toy, never leave the puppy alone when playing with the rope toy. The rawhide chews that crumble are good chew toys for puppies. Any buttons, eyes, ribbons or strings should be removed from soft toys before giving them to puppies or dogs.



Some other teething toy choices to get your puppy are: rubber teething keys, tiny rubber teethers that look like cartoon characters, and the nylon bones that have lumps on them that help sooth away the teething pain. Your puppy will enjoy chewing Bully Sticks, which are digestible. There are Kong toys that are made just for puppies and are a real aid for teething puppies.



Choose several different kinds of teething toys for your puppy and don't give all of them to him at once. Changing his toys out so he doesn't get bored with them is recommended. Always choose toys that are safe for your puppy to play with.



Once you have some good teething toys for your puppy encouraging him to play with his toys and not your belongings like shoes, remote controls, and other small items or even chewing furniture legs is the next step. He needs to be taught which are his toys and what he can't play with - your things.



So give your puppy one of his chew toys and tell him “This is your toy. Good boy or good girl.” Playing with your puppy with his toys helps to reinforce that these are his toys. When he gets your shoe or chews on the furniture—take the shoe away or remove him from the furniture and say “no” in a strong voice. Then give him one of his chew toys. If you stay steady and persistent in training him, your puppy will learn, which toys are his toys.



While your puppy is teething, he'll try to place his mouth on your hand or arm and teaching him this action isn't allowed is the best course of action. Take his mouth off of your arm or hand and tell him “no.” Then give him one of his chew toys.



The right training and the correct teething toys will get you and your puppy through the teething stage with less upsetting moments and less gum pain for your puppy.

Choosing Your Puppy

Before getting your puppy, it is important to know what kind of pet you want. Sometimes people choose puppies for the wrong reason, which is because it is so cute. This cute puppy might not seem as cute as a grown pet. It is good for someone with an emotional response to have a pet, but choosing puppies should be done with thought.



If you chose your pet only because it is cute, you may later have a pet that is smaller than you wanted or bigger or more active or less active than you desire. Consider your dwelling. Is it an apartment or a house? Do you have a yard or not? Do you want a pet that is breed for sporting? Do you want a hunting dog? Do you want a guard dog? Is the puppy basically for he children? Do you want to put the dog in competitions?



Considering the things you don't desire in a pet is important. Do you not want a pet that is more aggressive or is from a very active breed that needs considerable exercise? Is a pet that sheds a lot off of your list? You don't have to groom short haired dogs as much as long haired dogs. Dogs that are bred to be in the water have oily coats, which generate the characteristic doggy odor.



If you haven't had a dog before and would like to be able to predict your pet's temperament and characteristics, a pure bred is probably your best choice.



If you want an outside pet, find out if the bred can take cold weather well, if you live in a very cold area. Conversely, if you live in an area that has really hot summers a dog bred for cold weather won't be able to stay outside in the summer and survive. So factoring in whether you want an inside or outside pet and your weather conditions will help you pick the bred. Some breeds need a lot of play and exercise all of their lives and other breeds are more inactive when they are adults, though they were active as puppies.



Again, remember that the appearance of the puppy doesn't clue you in on the breed's personality, temperament, character, and natural disposition. Whether or not you choose a female or a male of the bred is a personal decision. There may be some difference in the personality of the males and females in a bred, which a dog breeder or a good book on a breed will tell you.



The social traits of your pet are important points. If you have small children and many of their friends come over, then a dog with a fierce loyalty to one person or a family isn't right for you.



Training your pet is another consideration. Some breeds are harder to train because they have been bred to be more independent and others like sporting or herding dogs are more easily trained. Research breeds and pick one that suits your needs to get the best puppy for you.

A Glimpse on the Various Types of Terrier Dogs

Whatever your dog preference is, you are sure to find terrier dogs among the candidates for a pal. You’ll get energy you want with little grooming and added wit.

Basically bred for hunting and killing vermin, Terrier dogs are now known to offer wide spectrum of features and characters that you might find lovable. They are not as cuddly as toy dogs (while there are some terrier dogs in the toy and companion dog brackets) and they may not be as intelligent like other breeds but they set off these lacks with various things that only they can offer.

Let us discuss in brief some of the terrier dog types that you may find interesting:

Less aggressive but definitely not timid. This best describes Soft Coated Wheaten Terriers. They are definitely alert and very spirited, but when the call for steadiness arrives, they are sure to show you some air of confidence and steady disposition.

This dog type too is gifted with intelligence which makes them very responsive with obedience training.

Parson Russell Terrier is a dog type that exhibits boldness, cleverness, affection and exuberant disposition. While many may find this a playful pal, it is still not advisable for everyone to take Parson Russell home. In fact, formal obedience training is a must for owners since this dog type is more likely to display mischievousness and too much playfulness that make this a very independent pet. For people with active lifestyles and those who can tolerate explorative disposition, this scamp is the best for you.

The Norwich Terrier, on the other hand, is a type of dog that resulted from breeding small Terriers with other smaller breeds, possibly Yorkshire Terriers. Maintenance of Norwich Terrier is minimal and they are content with modest living quarters. They have active disposition though and can be affectionate and fearless. Additionally, they are also known to display stocky and happy personalities which make them ideal pals.

Much like the Norwich Terriers, Norfolk Terriers are also well-spirited, fearless, charming and always ready for game. While both may have some similar physical characteristics, Norfolks can still be distinguished through their folds in the ears.

Basically workman-like dogs, Kerry Blue Terriers are excellent watchdogs and work well in farm settings. This dog got its name from its blue-shade coat color which was originally black during puppyhood.

Wire Fox Terriers are of great interest since they display power through its excellent endurance capabilities and speed. Alertness and quick movements are the dominant expressions of this dog type. It is advisable though that the owner trains this dog and should be given enough doses of daily exercises.

Meanwhile, Smooth Fox Terriers are the frolic and lively types of dogs that are ideal in both country and city living. Displaying intelligence and cleverness, this dog makes good trainees and must be well credited by that. They are also likely to show great affection towards their owners.

These are just some of the many terrier dog types that can be considered as your next pets. In general, this dog type has good dispositions and makes ideal home pets. While some may display obscure aggressiveness, this still does not negate the fact that most types have the capacity to develop affection and keen expression of their attachment to their owners. Be warned though that some dog types in this breed can be very playful and should be given enough amount of attention and time during obedience training and exercises.

Information about Welsh Terrier Dogs

Welsh terrier dogs were originally bred as hunting dogs. However, this native breed of Wales soon rose to become show dogs. Breeders attempted to outdo each other by developing the Welsh terrier dogs' wiry coats and coloration. People often take a Welsh terrier dog as a pet because it is one of the most mild-mannered of terriers.

You might think that this characteristic would make it one of the more boring terriers. In fact, even the most die-hard terrier fan can have fun with this breed. This is because of the fact that Welsh terrier dogs love to play. This makes the Welsh terrier dog a great companion.

Although not as high-energy as other breeds, this dog still is a terrier, which means that it still does contain some high levels of energy. Because of this, it is advised that they be given proper exercise regularly. Another good advice to follow is to properly socialize the dog at an early age. This would help the dog be friendlier towards humans and would help the dog to develop a good tolerance of other animals. It is generally friendly around children, provided that the children do not provoke or pester it too much.

The Welsh terrier dog can be trained using different methods. What you need to keep in mind when training a Welsh terrier dog is that you can be firm but gentle. The Welsh terrier dog can be taught to perform a variety of tricks. This breed actually can do very well in fly ball tricks or tricks that involve catching flying things such as a Frisbee.

You should brush a Welsh terrier dog’s hair at least once a week in order to remove dead or loose hair. This would help prevent unnecessary shedding inside the house. Although regular bathing is not really required, it is advisable that you wipe off dust and dirt from your dog regularly using a damp washcloth.

Because of its high energy level, it is advisable that a Welsh terrier dog be kept in a fenced in yard. This will give the dog enough space to play catch. However, if you take it out regularly to give it exercise, a Welsh terrier dog can do without the yard.

One thing that always gets people’s attention is the Welsh terrier dog’s excellent ability to jump. Because of this ability, it is sure to provide a lot of amusement to people. The main reason that it can jump and hop like it does is its long legs. It is because of these legs that a Welsh terrier dog can perform various tricks that other dog breeds are unable to do.

Why do you need to know all these things about Welsh terrier dogs? First of all, understanding these facts will help you discover the best way to take care of a Welsh terrier dog. Understanding these facts will also allow you to decide whether a Welsh terrier dog will make the best pet for you.

By learning all you can about Welsh terrier dogs, you get the knowledge necessary to provide the needs of your pet. This means that you will be able to develop a good, caring relationship with your pet.

Of course, learning all that you can about Welsh terrier dogs is not really easy. But you need to remember that life sometimes requires sacrifices to be made.

The Playful and Versatile Dog: Wheaten Terrier

Like most terriers, the Wheaten terriers, or simply called as Wheatens, were originally bred as hunters. Therefore, their physique naturally evolved as strong and healthy. Their hunting instincts have made them agile and alert as most terriers are. However, this breed is more stable and steady as compared to most terriers as they were used as by Irish farmers as all-purpose dogs.

Among the activities that molded their instincts and physical features were herding cattle and sheep, vermin terminators, hunting both in water and on land, and serving as watch dogs that deterred trespassers.

The following are some of the basic facts breeders would really love to know about Wheatens:

Category: Terrier

Living Environment: indoors (highly recommended); outdoors (fenced yard)

Coat: single coat, medium length, silky and soft, wavy
Colors: born to have black coats but at the age of two, their coats lighten to achieve the
color of wheat grains

Height: between 17 and 20 inches

Weight: between 30 and 45 pounds

Temperament:

Naturally,

• they rarely bark especially when it is unnecessary to do so
• they immediately reflect the moods of their household or those around them.
• their type requires a great deal of commitment and effort in training them so they should not be given to novice breeders and/or owners

If trained properly, they

• are generally happy and friendly
• are easy-going, confident, and deeply dedicated to their family's security
• can get along well with older children and other animals that have been raised with them or are living within the same household

Breeders should note of the following health issues:

• Flea allergies
• Addison's disease
• Heat stroke
• PLN and PLE

Care and Exercise:

• They require daily combing to prevent their wavy and thick coat from tangling.
• They should undergo trimming by professionals at least four times each year.
• Dry shampooing or even bathing should be done only when it is necessary.
• Eyes and ears should be checked and cleaned on a regular basis.
• They should be brought along with family activities such as play sessions, hiking, picnic, and even walking.

Origin/History:

The soft coated breed of terriers, shortly called as Wheatens, originated from Ireland. The date of their existence was obscure but many assumed that their breeds were one of the oldest among other Irish varieties. They were molded as herders, farm dogs, and hunters and terminators of vermin, like the Cairns of Scotland.

From Ireland, they were brought to the US in the year 1946. Slowly they gained popularity as pets and as entertainers. However, the extraordinary appeal of this breed to the Americans at present would not be possible if Patrick Blake did not save its lineage from extinction in1932. They were registered by the American Kennel Club in the year 1973.
Though their types have hunter instincts, they can get along well with older children and other animals within the household through proper training and attention. Like most terriers, they easily develop close affinity with family members so they normally appoint themselves as watch or guard dogs.

For professional breeders, why not appoint them as well as your pet especially when you are looking for a playful yet reliable companion and guard dog? To this effect, you can say that what you own is one heck of a dog—a dog that can work and play as well!

Hip Dysplasia And Golden Retrievers

Hip dysplasia is a poor formation of the hip joints, which is a common growing disease with younger dogs of virtually every breed. With larger breeds, unsteady hip joints are common, although hip dysplasia can be a serious problem that will limit the physical activity of your Golden. Although many Golden Retriever owners don’t realize it, hip dysplasia is something that dogs inherit from their parents, and gets worse with age.

The signs and symptoms of hip dysplasia is nearly impossible to detect with Golden puppies, although it will start to show once the pup has reached the age of nine months. Even though you may take your Golden to the vet to have him looked at, your vet will tell you that you need to wait to see if the symptoms are there, once the Golden Retriever has reached a certain age.

The symptoms and signs of hip dysplasia vary, although the most common include crippling or the inability to walk properly. This disease can get better once the dog gets older though, due to the joints stabilizing, the inflammation going down, and the muscles in the hips getting stronger and more mature. Keep in mind however, that Golden’s who have hip dysplasia when they are younger will more than likely develop arthritis when they get older.

Golden Retrievers that suffer from hip dysplasia aren’t fit for breeding, although they can still live a long and healthy life. There are certain drugs that your vet can prescribe to your dog, which will help him control his weight and help control the disease. These drugs can also cut down on the pain as well, helping your Golden enjoy himself as much as possible.

Some Golden Retrievers that have hip dysplasia won’t begin to show any signs at all until they get a few years old, once the muscles start to wear down and the damage to the hip muscles start to become more noticeable. Although your dog may be active and healthy for most of his puppy years, dysplasia can slow everything down and make your dog look as if he is old and is suffering from the physical attributes of arthritis.

To eliminate the pain of hip dysplasia, there are surgery options available. Golden Retrievers have a high threshold for pain, and won’t normally show any signs of being in pain, even though you know they are. X-rays won’t show any signs of pain, although the limping or slow walking will tell you that your dog is hurting. Golden Retriever’s who have this disease won’t know it - which is why you should help as much as possible. If you do your part and help your dog seek relief - he will feel better than ever before - although he won’t let you know he hurt any at all.

Newfoundland - The Aristocrat Among Dogs

The dogs which take their name from the island of Newfoundland appeal to all lovers of animals.There are now two established varieties, the black and the white and black. There are also bronze-coloured dogs, but they are rare. The black variety of the Newfoundland is essentially black in colour; but this does not mean that there may be no other colour, for most black Newfoundlands have some white marks. In fact, a white marking on the chest is said to be typical of the true breed. Any white on the head or body would place the dog in the other than black variety. The black colour should preferably be of a dull jet appearance which approximates to brown. In the other than black class, there may be black and tan, bronze, and white and black. The latter predominates, and in this colour, beauty of marking is very important. The head should be black with a white muzzle and blaze, and the body and legs should be white with large patches of black on the saddle and quarters, with possibly other small black spots on the body and legs.

Apart from colour, the varieties should conform to the same standard. The head should be broad and massive, but in no sense heavy in appearance. The muzzle should be short, square, and clean cut, eyes rather wide apart, deep set, dark and small, not showing any haw; ears small, with close side carriage, covered with fine short hair (there should be no fringe to the ears), expression full of intelligence, dignity, and kindness.

The body should be long, square, and massive, loins strong and well filled; chest deep and broad; legs quite straight, somewhat short in proportion to the length of the body, and powerful, with round bone well covered with muscle; feet large, round, and close. The tail should be only long enough to reach just below the hocks, free from kink, and never curled over the back. The quality of the coat is very important; the coat should be very dense, with plenty of undercoat; the outer coat somewhat harsh and quite straight.

The appearance generally should indicate a dog of great strength, and very active for his build and size, moving freely with the body swung loosely between the legs, which gives a slight roll in gait. As regards size, the Newfoundland Club standard gives 140 lbs. to 120 lbs. weight for a dog, and 110 lbs. to 120 lbs. for a bitch, with an average height at the shoulder of 27 inches and 25 inches respectively; but it is doubtful whether dogs in proper condition do conform to both requirements.

When rearing puppies give them soft food, such as well-boiled rice and milk, as soon as they will lap, and, shortly afterwards, scraped lean meat. Newfoundland puppies require plenty of meat to induce proper growth. The puppies should increase in weight at the rate of 3 lbs. a week, and this necessitates plenty of flesh, bone and muscle-forming food, plenty of meat, both raw and cooked. Milk is also good, but it requires to be strengthened with casein. The secret of growing full-sized dogs with plenty of bone and substance is to get a good start from birth, good feeding, warm, dry quarters, and freedom for the puppies to move about and exercise themselves as they wish. Forced exercise may make them go wrong on their legs. Medicine should not be required except for worms, and the puppies should be physicked for these soon after they are weaned, and again when three or four months old, or before that if they are not thriving. If free from worms, Newfoundland puppies will be found quite hardy, and, under proper conditions of food and quarters, they are easy to rear.

The Decorative Deerhound

The Deerhound is one of the most decorative of dogs, impressively stately and picturesque wherever he is seen, whether it be amid the surroundings of the baronial hall, reclining at luxurious length before the open hearth in the fitful light of the log fire that flickers on polished armour and tarnished tapestry; out in the open, straining at the leash as he scents the dewy air, or gracefully bounding over the purple of his native hills. Grace and majesty are in his every movement and attitude, and even to the most prosaic mind there is about him the inseparable glamour of feudal romance and poetry.

From remote days the Scottish nobles cherished their strains of Deerhound, seeking glorious sport in the Highland forests. The red deer belonged by inexorable law to the kings of Scotland, and great drives, which often lasted for several days, were made to round up the herds into given neighbourhoods for the pleasure of the court, as in the reign of Queen Mary. But the organised coursing of deer by courtiers ceased during the Stuart troubles, and was left in the hands of retainers, who thus replenished their chief's larder.

Head:-

The head should be broadest at the ears, tapering slightly to the eyes, with the muzzle tapering more decidedly to the nose. The muzzle should be pointed, but the teeth and lips level. The head should be long, the skull flat rather than round, with a very slight rise over the eyes, but with nothing approaching a stop. The skull should be coated with moderately long hair which is softer than the rest of the coat. The nose should be black (though in some blue-fawns the colour is blue) and slightly aquiline. In the lighter-coloured dogs a black muzzle is preferred. There should be a good moustache of rather silky hair, and a fair beard.

Ears:-

The ears should be set on high, and, in repose, folded back like the Greyhound's, though raised above the head in excitement without losing the fold, and even, in some cases, semi-erect.The ear should be soft, glossy, and like a mouse's coat to the touch, and the smaller it is the better. It should have no long coat or long fringe, but there is often a silky, silvery coat on the body of the ear and the tip. Whatever the general colour, the ears should be black or dark-coloured.

Neck and shoulders:-

The neck should be long that is, of the length that befits the Greyhound character of the dog. The nape of the neck should be very prominent where the head is set on, and the throat should be clean-cut at the angle and prominent. The shoulders should be well sloped, the blades well back, with not too much width between them.

Stern:-

Stern should be tolerably long, tapering, and reaching to within 1-1/2 inches of the ground, and about 1-1/2 inches below the hocks. When the dog is still, dropped perfectly straight down, or curved. When in motion it should be curved when excited, in no case to be lifted out of the line of the back. It should be well covered with hair, on the inside thick and wiry, underside longer.

Eyes:-

The eyes should be dark: generally they are dark brown or hazel. The eye is moderately full with a soft look in repose, but a keen, far-away gaze when the dog is roused. The rims of the eyelids should be black.

Body: The body and general formation is that of a Greyhound of larger size and bone. Chest deep rather than broad, but not too narrow and flat-sided. The loin well arched and drooping to the tail.

Legs and feet:-

The legs should be broad and flat, a good broad forearm and elbow being desirable. Fore-legs, of course, as straight as possible. Feet close and compact, with well-arched toes. The hind-quarters drooping, and as broad and powerful as possible, the hips being set wide apart. The hind-legs should be well bent at the stifle, with great length from the hip to the hock, which should be broad and flat.

Coat:-

The hair on the body, neck, and quarters should be harsh and wiry, and about 3 inches or 4 inches long; that on the head, breast, and belly is much softer. There should be a slight hairy fringe on the inside of the fore and hind-legs, but nothing approaching to the feathering of a Collie. The Deerhound should be a shaggy dog, but not over coated.

Colour:-

Colour is much a matter of fancy. But there is no manner of doubt that the dark blue-grey is the most preferred. Next come the darker and lighter greys or brindles, the darkest being generally preferred. Yellow and sandy-red or red-fawn, especially with black points i.e., ears and muzzle are also in equal estimation.

Height:-

From 28 inches to 30 inches, or even more if there be symmetry without coarseness, which, however, is rare. Height of bitches: From 26 inches upwards. There can be no objection to a bitch being large, unless she is too coarse, as even at her greatest height she does not approach that of the dog, and, therefore, could not well be too big for work, as over-big dogs are.

The Collie Dog

The Collie dog makes an excellent sporting dog, and can be taught to do the work of the Pointer and the Setter, as well as that of the Water Spaniel and the Retriever. He can be trained to perform the duties of other breeds. He is clever at hunting, having an excellent nose, is a good vermin-killer, and a most faithful watch, guard, and companion.

Little is known with certainty of the origin of the Collie, but his cunning and his outward appearance would seem to indicate a relationship with the wild dog. Buffon was of opinion that he was the true dog of nature, the stock and model of the whole canine species. He considered the Sheepdog superior in instinct and intelligence to all other breeds, and that, with a character in which education has comparatively little share, he is the only animal born perfectly trained for the service of man.

At the shows this type of dog is invariably at the top of the class. He is considered the most tractable, and is certainly the most agile. Second to this type in favour is the smooth-coated variety, a very hard, useful dog, well adapted for hill work and usually very fleet of foot. He is not so sweet in temper as the black and white, and is slow to make friends. There is not a more graceful and physically beautiful dog to be seen than the show Collie of the present period. Produced from the old working type, he is now practically a distinct breed.

The skull should be flat, moderately wide between the ears, and gradually tapering towards the eyes. There should only be a slight depression at stop. The width of skull necessarily depends upon combined length of skull and muzzle; and the whole must be considered in connection with the size of the dog. The cheek should not be full or prominent.

The muzzle should be of fair length, tapering to the nose, and must not show weakness or be snipy or lippy. Whatever the colour of the dog may be, the nose must be black. The teeth should be of good size, sound and level; very slight unevenness is permissible. The jaws Clean cut and powerful. The eyes are a very important feature, and give expression to the dog; they should be of medium size, set somewhat obliquely, of almond shape, and of a brown colour except in the case of merles, when the eyes are frequently (one or both) blue and white or china; expression full of intelligence, with a quick alert look when listening. The ears should be small and moderately wide at the base, and placed not too close together but on the top of the skull and not on the side of the head. When in repose they should be usually carried thrown back, but when on the alert brought forward and carried semi-erect, with tips slightly drooping in attitude of listening.

The neck should be muscular, powerful and of fair length, and somewhat arched. The body should be strong, with well sprung ribs, chest deep, fairly broad behind the shoulders, which should be sloped, loins very powerful. The dog should be straight in front. The fore-legs should be straight and muscular, neither in nor out at elbows, with a fair amount of bone; the forearm somewhat fleshy, the pasterns showing flexibility without weakness. The hind-legs should be muscular at the thighs, clean and sinewy below the hocks, with well bent stifles. The feet should be oval in shape, soles well padded, and the toes arched and close together.

In general character he is a lithe active dog, his deep chest showing lung power, his neck strength, his sloping shoulders and well bent hocks indicating speed, and his expression high intelligence. He should be a fair length on the leg, giving him more of a racy than a cloddy appearance. In a few words, a Collie should show endurance, activity, and intelligence, with free and true action. In height dogs should be 22 ins. to 24 ins. at the shoulders, bitches 20 ins. to 22 ins. The weight for dogs is 45 to 65 lbs., bitches 40 to 55 lbs. The smooth collie only differs from the rough in its coat, which should be hard, dense and quite smooth.

The Most Intelligent Poodle

The Poodle is commonly acknowledged to be the most wisely intelligent of all members of the canine race. There is a general belief that he is a fop, whose time is largely occupied in personal embellishment, and that he requires a great deal of individual attention in the matter of his toilet. It may be true that to keep him in exhibition order and perfect cleanliness his owner has need to devote more consideration to him than is necessary in the case of many breeds; but in other respects he gives very little trouble, and all who are attached to him are consistent in their opinion that there is no dog so intensely interesting and responsive as a companion. His qualities of mind and his acute powers of reasoning are indeed so great that there is something almost human in his attractiveness and his devotion. His aptitude in learning is never denied, and many are the stories told of his marvellous talent and versatility.

Not merely as a showman's dog has he distinguished himself. He is something more than a mountebank of the booths, trained to walk the tight rope and stand on his head. He is an adept at performing tricks, but it is his alertness of brain that places him apart from other animals.

The profuse and long coat of this dog has the peculiarity that if not kept constantly brushed out it twists up into little cords which increase in length as the new hair grows and clings about it. The unshed old hair and the new growth entwined together thus become distinct rope-like cords. Eventually, if these cords are not cut short, or accidentally torn off, they drag along the ground, and so prevent the poor animal from moving with any degree of comfort or freedom.

Corded Poodles are very showy, and from the remarkable appearance of the coat, attract a great deal of public attention when exhibited at shows; but they have lost popularity among most fanciers, and have become few in number owing to the obvious fact that it is impossible to make pets of them or keep them in the house. The reason of this is that the coat must, from time to time, be oiled in order to keep the cords supple and prevent them from snapping, and, of course, as their coats cannot be brushed, the only way of keeping the dog clean is to wash him, which with a corded Poodle is a lengthy and laborious process. Further, the coat takes hours to dry, and unless the newly washed dog be kept in a warm room he is very liable to catch cold. The result is, that the coats of corded Poodles are almost invariably dirty, and somewhat smelly.

Poodle's General appearance
---------------------------

Head: Long, straight, and fine, the skull not broad, with a slight peak at the back.

Muzzle: Long (but not snipy) and strong not full in cheek; teeth white, strong, and level; gums black, lips black and not showing lippiness.

Eyes: Almond shaped, very dark, full of fire and intelligence.

Nose: Black and sharp.

Ears: The leather long and wide, low set on, hanging close to the face.

Neck: Well proportioned and strong, to admit of the head being carried high and with dignity.

Feet: Rather small, and of good shape, the toes well arched, pads thick and hard.

Legs: Fore-legs set straight from shoulder, with plenty of bone and muscle.

Hind-legs: Very muscular and well bent, with the hocks well let down.

Tail: Set on rather high, well carried, never curled or carried over back.

Coat: Very profuse, and of good hard texture; if corded, hanging in tight, even cords; if non-corded, very thick and strong, of even length, the curls close and thick, without knots or cords.

The Foxhound Dog

Foxhounds were the very first of the canine races in Great Britain to come under the domination of scientific breeding. There had been hounds of more ancient origin, such as the Southern Hound and the Bloodhound; but something different was wanted towards the end of the seventeenth century to hunt the wild deer that had become somewhat scattered after Cromwell's civil war. The demand was consequently for a quicker hound than those hitherto known, and people devoted to the chase began to breed it.

Head:-

Somewhat broad, not peaked like the Bloodhound, but long from the apex to the frontal bones, eyebrows very prominent, cheeks cut clean from the eye to the nostril, ears set low and in their natural condition thin and shapely, but not large, nose large, jaw strong and level, and small dewlaps, expression fierce, and with the best often repellent.

Eyes:-

Very bright and deeply set, full of determination, and with a very steady expression. The look of the Foxhound is very remarkable.

Neck Should be perfectly clean, no skin ruffle whatever. The length of neck is of importance, both for stooping and giving an air of majesty.

Shoulders:-

The blades should be well into the back, and should slant, otherwise be wide and strong, to meet the arms, that should be long and powerful.

Legs and feet:-

The bone should be perfectly straight from the arm downward, and descend in the same degree of size to the ankles. The knee should be almost flat and level; there should be no curve until coming to the toes, which should be very strong, round, cat-shaped, and every toe clean set as it were.

Coat:-

The coat is hard hair, but short and smooth, the texture is as stiff as bristles, but beautifully laid.

Colour:-

Belvoir tan, which is brown and black, perfectly intermixed, with white markings of various shapes and sizes. The white should be very opaque and clear. Black and white, with tan markings on head and stifles. Badger pied a kind of grey and white. Lemon pied, light yellow and white. Hare pied, a darker yellow and white.

The Golden Retriever

In a dog’s world, Golden Retrievers are simply the fatal attraction. They are a preferred dog breed, making great pets, hunting dogs, obedience competitors, show dogs, and even a combination of all these traits. No matter what your intent may be to own a Golden Retriever, you’ll have an excellent dog that will live up to it’s potential and then some.

Golden Retrievers are calm, well mannered, and extremely affectionate. They are easy to train as well, very intelligent, and great for those who need a companion. Golden’s are also loyal to their owners, lovable, and great with children of all ages. They also make great watchdogs as well, as they will bark loud and let you know when a stranger is near.

Like other dogs, Golden Retrievers will shed their hair throughout the year and more in the spring - no matter how many times you brush them a day. They also like to be in and near the water, similar to Labs. If you have any type of water on or near your property, your Golden Retriever will be in it, and tend to be either wet or muddy quite a bit - which can tend to get frustrating.

If you are always on the go or never at home, you shouldn’t get a Golden Retriever. If you prefer cats over dogs, you should look into another breed. Golden Retrievers crave attention and admiration, and normally don’t do too well if you leave them at home by themselves for long periods of time. Golden’s need attention, and desire to be around you at all times. If you spend a lot of time at home on the other hand, or have kids, a Golden Retriever will be a perfect addition to your family.

A lot of people out there prefer to get a puppy and raise it themselves. This way, the puppy will grow up with the skills they have taught him. This is a great idea and very rewarding, although it can consume a lot of your time and tend to be very frustrating at times. Those who don’t have a lot of time to spare or tend to get easily frustrated, shouldn’t get a puppy. Instead, they should look towards an older Golden Retriever who has already been house broken and trained.

Golden Retrievers are an excellent breed, and they can provide you with the companion you have been looking for. They can participate in several activities with you as well, such as hiking, camping, and walking. Golden’s love the outdoors, and they love just getting out there and doing things with you and your family. If you include your Golden Retriever in family activities - you’ll have a friend for life who will quickly grow on you over the years.

What Is Really In Your Dog's Food?

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With the many commercially prepared dog foods available on today's market, it is often quite difficult to tell which ones are better than others and why.

First of all, you can't judge by advertising which are the good and bad dog foods. Many advertisers spend millions of dollars per year advertising inferior foods. Unfortunately, a good indicator on quality of food is price. Low priced foods are not always, but most often, the lowest quality foods on the market.

You want to make sure that the adult dog food you are feeding is 22-25% protein and 15-19% fat. The protein should come from a good quality source. Some dogs such as puppies, large breeds, and active breeds have different protein and fat requirements. Make sure to discuss this with your veterinarian to ensure proper feeding of your dog.

* Healthy Dog Food System All Natural Dog Food

In order for you to make an informed decision, you must know which ingredients are better than others. When you look at a food label, the following are the kinds of ingredients that you are looking for: Human Grade Ingredients Chicken meal, Turkey meal, Fish meal, Rice, Potatoes, Lamb meal, Potatoes, Rice, Sunflower Oil, Vegetables and others. Good dog foods first four ingredients should not be grains, but should consist of things like meat and proteins.

You also want to make sure it says chicken meal and not chicken as the primary ingredient. If it says chicken only, this means that the manufacturers are counting the entire chicken toward protein value. This includes beaks, feathers, and feet. With chicken meal, they are only counting the cooked down version of the protein. This will ensure that your dog is getting the appropriate kind of protein and not byproducts. Vitamins and fatty acids are also good ingredients in dog foods. Some examples include Vitamin E, Omega 3 and 6, etc. These are very important for a healthy looking skin and coat. Make sure the dog food is not laden with preservatives.

Some of the ingredients that you don't want to see on your dog food label include: Inferior protein which consists of but not limited to variations of the following: Wheat, Corn, Chicken by-products, Soy, Gluten. These ingredients are hard to digest and can cause health problems later on if used for a long period of time. Sugar is another ingredient that you want to stay away from.

You are always better off purchasing food from a company that spends time and money field testing their products. You can always be sure that companies such as Purina, the Iams Company (which also includes Eukanuba), Royal Canin, Nutro, Diamond, and Hill's Science Diet are constantly testing their foods to provide the optimum quality ingredients.

These companies offer different grades of food, however, from lower quality to premium quality so make sure that you always read the labels. These are not the only companies by any means who make good quality dog food. The important thing is to read the label, do your research, ask questions of your veterinarians and pet professionals and always be informed. People who work at feed stores are usually a good resource and can help you find good quality pet food. Breeders can also be a good source for finding a quality food for your dog. Dog trainers will also often have a good knowledge of proper nutrition.

You should always follow your veterinarian's recommendation on food as well. Many times dogs of certain ages or with certain health conditions need to be on a prescription diet. While these diets are often expensive, they do contain the proper nutrients that dogs in these categories need. Many times owners will switch to a commercial food because of cost or palatability concerns and the dog's health will go in to a decline. Your veterinary staff know what is best for your particular dog.

While it is often confusing, proper dog nutrition is vital to the health and longevity of your dog. By knowing what consists of good quality ingredients and which ingredients to avoid, you can be assured that you will choose the proper food for your dog. As always, if you have questions, ask your veterinary staff for more information.

Selecting Dog Food

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Commercial dog food is a great convenience for busy caregivers. You want the best for your companion animals, but with a bewildering array of foods and claims to choose from, how do you decide what's best for your animals?

Standards For Dog Food Ingredients

The dog food industry is huge and extremely profitable ($25 billion a year in revenue worldwide). While manufacturers may appear to have the best interests of your companion animals at heart, they are generally more concerned about their stock prices and bottom lines. This may be especially true of dog food manufacturers owned by large, diverse, multinational parent companies. What this means to you is that if an inexpensive ingredient is available to replace a costlier one, many companies will make the substitution to save money. A few companies pride themselves on their "fixed formulas," meaning that they always use the same ingredients. This may be good ... if the ingredients are of acceptable quality to begin with.

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Dog food may be labeled as "complete and balanced" if it meets the standards set by a group called AAFCO, the Association of American Feed Control Officials. These standards were formulated in the early 1990s by panels of canine and feline nutrition experts. A food may be certified in two ways: (1) by meeting AAFCO's published standards for content ("Nutrient Profiles"), or (2) by passing feeding tests or trials. While most researchers agree that feeding tests are superior in assessing the nutritional adequacy of a food, clinical experience as well as scientific studies have confirmed that even foods that pass feeding trials may still be inadequate for long-term maintenance. Also keep in mind that the standards set only "minimums" and "maximums," not "optimums." Commercial foods are designed to be adequate for the average animal, but not all foods will be suitable for an individual animal's variable needs.

Dog Food Problems

Commercial dog foods and some dog food ingredients have been implicated in a number of diseases in companion animals. Allergic skin disease, obesity, food intolerance, inflammatory bowel disease, chronic ear infections, cystitis (bladder inflammation), bladder and kidney stones, certain heart diseases, pancreatitis, feline hyperthyroidism, hip dysplasia, canine mammary cancer, bloat, and diabetes all have nutritional components - that is, nutritional factors are suspected or known to play a role in inducing or perpetuating these diseases. Thus, it is crucial that we, as caregivers, pay close attention to what we are feeding our animals and how they are reacting to the food.

One potential problem with commercial dog food is pesticide residues, antibiotics, and molds contained in dog food ingredients. Meat from sick animals may be loaded with drugs, some of which are known to pass unchanged through all the processing done to create a finished dog food (such as penicillin and pentobarbital). Between 1995 and 1999, there were two major recalls of dry dog food by different manufacturers due to mold contamination of grain ingredients. Some fungal toxins are very dangerous. The second recalled food killed more than 20 dogs.

Another problem is the unpredictable quality of common dog food ingredients. By-products, by-product meal, meat and bone meal, and similar ingredients can vary widely in their nutrient composition. Bone meals in the U.S. have had a lead contamination problem for many years. The protein in a meal containing a large amount of bone may be poorly digestible and fail to provide adequate nutrition, even though chemical analysis will reveal an acceptable amount of amino acids.

One of the biggest problems with commercial foods is the processing they undergo. Meals are rendered (cooked) at moderate to high temperatures for hours. Extruded foods pass through a steam heat/high pressure device that allows them to "puff" into kibble shapes when they come out of the machine. Even though they move through the extruder quickly, the extreme conditions may alter or damage some nutrients.

Dog food manufacturers are aware of these factors, and most add sufficient extra vitamins, minerals and other nutrients to compensate for losses in the manufacturing process. However, because the AAFCO profiles set only minimums for many nutrients, tests have shown that some minerals may be added to the food in excessive amounts.

Dog Food Label "Rules"

* The 95% Rule: If the product says "Salmon Cat Food" or "Beef Dog Food," 95% of the product must be the named ingredients. A product with a combination label, such as "Beef and Liver for Dogs," must contain 95% beef and liver, and there must be more beef than liver, since beef is named first.

* The 25% or "Dinner" Rule: Ingredients named on the label must comprise at least 25% of the product but less than 95%, when there is a qualifying "descriptor" term like "dinner," "entree," "formula," "platter," "nuggets," etc. In "Beef Dinner for Dogs," beef may or may not be the primary ingredient. If two ingredients are named ("Beef and Turkey Dinner for Dogs"), the two ingredients must total 25%, there must be more of the first ingredient (beef) than the second (turkey), and there must be at least 3% of the lesser ingredient.

* The 3% or "With" Rule: A product may be labeled "Cat Food with Salmon" if it contains at least 3% of the named ingredient.
The "Flavor" Rule: A food may be labeled "Turkey Flavor Cat Food" even if the food does not contain such ingredients, as long as there is a "sufficiently detectable" amount of flavor. This may be derived from meals, by-products, or "digests" of various parts from the animal species indicated on the label. Source: Animal Protection Institute

What Is BARF?

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It actually sounds kind of gross, but BARF is an acronym for Biologically Appropriate Raw Food or Bones and Raw Food. Many health conscious veterinarians are huge advocates for this diet which can completely replace commercially prepared dog food. One of the first proponents of the BARF diet was Dr. Ian Billinghurst who still recommends it today. He believes that it is the ultimate way to get our pets in to optimum health. Many people believe that the BARF diet simulates what your dog would eat in his natural environment.

Many people feel that there are a lot of health advantages to feeding a raw food diet. Many owners who have dogs with problems such as allergies, skin problems, weight problems, and anal gland problems have found that the bones and raw food diet has helped to significantly remedy these issues.

Some of the advantages to feeding a biologically appropriate raw food diet include no consumption of preservatives found in most commercially prepared kibble diets, it usually tastes better to your dog than regular dog food, and in general, muscle mass and body condition improve on a raw food diet. One also often finds that dogs produce fewer stools, eat more slowly, and have fewer health problems. Many advocates of the raw food diet also claim that it is less expensive than commercially manufactured dog food. One of the biggest disadvantages to this diet is that it takes longer to prepare.

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If you decide that you would like to try the BARF diet with your dog, you must first do the research. There are many websites and books available to guide you through the process. Talk to your veterinarian, though many veterinarians are unfamiliar with the BARF diet. Find people in your area that feed the raw food diet to their animals. Make sure it is right for you and your dog before you try it.

The next step is to transition your dog from his commercial dog food to his new bones and raw food diet. You may want to do this gradually as oftentimes dogs develop digestive problems when switching to new diets. Some advocates of the BARF diet recommend switching your dog to the new diet cold turkey, however.

When feeding a raw food diet, you will generally want to feed your dog twice per day. The first meal of the day will usually consist of raw meat and bones like turkey or chicken legs, thighs, wings, or necks, pork riblets, lamb chops, and the like. The second meal will consist of a mush made with raw meat, fresh vegetables, and Offal (the organs parts of the meat you are feeding).

Usually you will want to supplement this with cottage cheese, eggs with the shells, yogurt, fruit, fish, and recreational bones (which are the harder to chew kinds of bones). This can vary, so do your homework. You will want to avoid grains. Advocates of the biologically appropriate raw food diet agree that dogs do not have the proper digestive systems to deal with whole grains and that most food allergies are grain related.

Most advocates of the raw food diet do not recommend supplements. If you aren't sure what to do, speak with your veterinarian.

Many people are hesitant to feed their dog a raw diet because they are concerned about their dogs choking on bones. While these incidents occur, proponents of raw food diets say they are rare, and that generally, dogs choke on cooked bones, not raw ones.

There are commercially prepared raw food diets on the market. While this is always an option for you if you choose to feed raw food, many advocates of the BARF diet recommend against it. They argue that these foods have different regulations that human grade foods, oftentimes contain unnecessary supplements, are ground foods (and the whole basis of the BARF diet is raw, meaty bones), and are much more expensive than visiting your local butcher.

If you decide that the bones and raw food diet is something that you'd like to try, first talk to your veterinarian about your decision. Then, do as much research into the diet as possible. Talk to others who feed the diet. You may find that by feeding the BARF diet you are improving the health of your dog.

Commercial Dog Food Information

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Commercial dog food is a great convenience for busy caregivers. You want the best for your companion animals, but with a bewildering array of foods and claims to choose from, how do you decide what's best for your animals?

Standards For Dog Food Ingredients

The commercial dog food industry is huge and extremely profitable ($25 billion a year in revenue worldwide). While manufacturers may appear to have the best interests of your companion animals at heart, they are generally more concerned about their stock prices and bottom lines. This may be especially true of commercial dog food manufacturers owned by large, diverse, multinational parent companies. What this means to you is that if an inexpensive ingredient is available to replace a costlier one, many companies will make the substitution to save money. A few companies pride themselves on their "fixed formulas," meaning that they always use the same ingredients. This may be good ... if the ingredients are of acceptable quality to begin with.

Healthy Dog Food System Natural Dog Food System

Dog food may be labeled as "complete and balanced" if it meets the standards set by a group called AAFCO, the Association of American Feed Control Officials. These standards were formulated in the early 1990s by panels of canine and feline nutrition experts. A food may be certified in two ways: (1) by meeting AAFCO's published standards for content ("Nutrient Profiles"), or (2) by passing feeding tests or trials. While most researchers agree that feeding tests are superior in assessing the nutritional adequacy of a food, clinical experience as well as scientific studies have confirmed that even foods that pass feeding trials may still be inadequate for long-term maintenance. Also keep in mind that the standards set only "minimums" and "maximums," not "optimums." Commercial foods are designed to be adequate for the average animal, but not all foods will be suitable for an individual animal's variable needs.

Commercial Dog Food Problems

Commercial dog foods and some dog food ingredients have been implicated in a number of diseases in companion animals. Allergic skin disease, obesity, food intolerance, inflammatory bowel disease, chronic ear infections, cystitis (bladder inflammation), bladder and kidney stones, certain heart diseases, pancreatitis, feline hyperthyroidism, hip dysplasia, canine mammary cancer, bloat, and diabetes all have nutritional components - that is, nutritional factors are suspected or known to play a role in inducing or perpetuating these diseases. Thus, it is crucial that we, as caregivers, pay close attention to what we are feeding our animals and how they are reacting to the food.

One potential problem with commercial dog food is pesticide residues, antibiotics, and molds contained in dog food ingredients. Meat from sick animals may be loaded with drugs, some of which are known to pass unchanged through all the processing done to create a finished dog food (such as penicillin and pentobarbital). Between 1995 and 1999, there were two major recalls of dry commercial dog food by different manufacturers due to mold contamination of grain ingredients. Some fungal toxins are very dangerous. The second recalled food killed more than 20 dogs.

Another problem is the unpredictable quality of common commercial dog food ingredients. By-products, by-product meal, meat and bone meal, and similar ingredients can vary widely in their nutrient composition. Bone meals in the U.S. have had a lead contamination problem for many years. The protein in a meal containing a large amount of bone may be poorly digestible and fail to provide adequate nutrition, even though chemical analysis will reveal an acceptable amount of amino acids.

One of the biggest problems with commercial foods is the processing they undergo. Meals are rendered (cooked) at moderate to high temperatures for hours. Extruded foods pass through a steam heat/high pressure device that allows them to "puff" into kibble shapes when they come out of the machine. Even though they move through the extruder quickly, the extreme conditions may alter or damage some nutrients.

Commercial dog food manufacturers are aware of these factors, and most add sufficient extra vitamins, minerals and other nutrients to compensate for losses in the manufacturing process. However, because the AAFCO profiles set only minimums for many nutrients, tests have shown that some minerals may be added to the food in excessive amounts.

Dog Food Label "Rules"

* The 95% Rule: If the product says "Salmon Cat Food" or "Beef Dog Food," 95% of the product must be the named ingredients. A product with a combination label, such as "Beef and Liver for Dogs," must contain 95% beef and liver, and there must be more beef than liver, since beef is named first.

* The 25% or "Dinner" Rule: Ingredients named on the label must comprise at least 25% of the product but less than 95%, when there is a qualifying "descriptor" term like "dinner," "entree," "formula," "platter," "nuggets," etc. In "Beef Dinner for Dogs," beef may or may not be the primary ingredient. If two ingredients are named ("Beef and Turkey Dinner for Dogs"), the two ingredients must total 25%, there must be more of the first ingredient (beef) than the second (turkey), and there must be at least 3% of the lesser ingredient.

* The 3% or "With" Rule: A product may be labeled "Cat Food with Salmon" if it contains at least 3% of the named ingredient.

The "Flavor" Rule: A food may be labeled "Turkey Flavor Cat Food" even if the food does not contain such ingredients, as long as there is a "sufficiently detectable" amount of flavor. This may be derived from meals, by-products, or "digests" of various parts from the animal species indicated on the label. Source: Animal Protection Institute

Dog Feeding Guidelines

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* Change brands or flavors of dry food every three to four months to avoid deficiencies or excesses of ingredients which may be problematic for your dog.

* When changing dry foods, mix 1/4 of the new food with 3/4 of the old food, and increase the new food a little each day. Some finicky dogs may need a more gradual change over two or more weeks. Never let a cat skip more than one or two meals; return to the old food if necessary.

* With any new food or supplement, watch for subtle changes in your dog's skin and coat, appetite, energy level, mood, itchiness, discharges or odors, body weight, and the size and consistency of stool. If negative changes occur, try a different food. If the change persists, consult your veterinarian.

* If your dog companion is on a prescription diet, check with your veterinarian periodically (at least every 6 months) to make sure the diet is still correct. Many conditions resolve over time, and a diet that was needed for a younger dog may be inappropriate when she is older.

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* It is usually preferable to feed one or two meals per day rather than leaving food out all the time. However, some medical conditions require more frequent feeding. Check with your veterinarian about recommendations for your dogs.

* Feed some canned food, which generally contains more dog protein and less grain than dry foods. Plain dry food does not clean the teeth and is not an essential for either cats or dogs. Cats in particular need at least 50% of their diet in the form of wet food to reduce the workload on the kidneys and keep the urine dilute. Cats with a history of bladder or kidney disease should not be fed any dry food.

* Supplement all commercial dog foods with other foods, such as organic meats and steamed, pureed or finely grated vegetables (most cannot be very well digested by carnivores raw). Dogs may be supplemented with tofu and cooked grains; however, cats should receive minimal carbohydrates in the diet. (Plant products tend to raise urine pH and may predispose cats to urinary tract disease.) If you are supplementing more than 15-20% of the diet, however, you will need to consult one of the many available books or websites for information on balancing vitamins, minerals and other nutrients.

* Other helpful supplements that are especially important when feeding commercial food include probiotics such as acidophilus, digestive enzymes, and the antioxidant vitamins E (alpha tocopherol) and C (either Ester C, calcium ascorbate, or sodium ascorbate).

* Consider making at least some of your dog's food at home. This lets you control the quality of the ingredients. There are many excellent books, articles, and websites available for more detailed guidelines on ingredients, proportions, and preparations. Even one or two home-made meals a week will be a significant improvement over feeding solely commercial dog foods.

Your veterinarian only sees your companion once a year. Since you are with her every day, it is essential that you monitor her general health and how she is responding to the food she's eating. Changes in appetite, coat quality, weight, stool, urine, or water consumption may signal a problem with the food, or a more serious medical problem. Report these or any other unusual changes or behaviors to your veterinarian. Source: Animal Protection Institute

Vegetarian Dog Food

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Dogs are classified as carnivores, but many dogs can thrive on a vegetarian diet. There are several vegetarian and even vegan pet foods available which are supplemented with nutrients unavailable in plants. Your dog might do very well with one of these diets, or even with a balanced homemade vegetarian diet. However, you should watch your dog carefully for problems such as a dull coat, dandruff, low energy, diarrhea, or other symptoms. It can take months or even years for a deficiency to develop.

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Vegetables are highly digestible by dogs after cooking. Baking is best for nutrient retention; but boiling is fine, if you also use the water in the food. Dogs love most cooked vegetables, but may prefer them cut into small pieces or pureed. Whole cooked potatoes make an excellent snack. Source: Animal Protection Institute

Feeding Your Golden Retriever

All Golden Retriever puppies will nurture from their mother until they reach the age of seven weeks. Once they reach the age of three weeks, they should be fed with puppy food, which you should soak and mix into a warm grubby compound. This way, it resembles the food they get from their mother, and they will learn quickly how their food tastes and how they should eat it.

Once you bring your puppy home, you should always make sure that you use the same food that he has become accustomed to. The breeder will start training the puppy with food, and it’s up to you to ensure that he gets the food he has come to know. Golden Retriever puppies have very delicate stomachs, and they can be very receptive to any changes in their food.

When you first bring your new Golden Retriever puppy home, he or she may not be too interested in eating for the first few days. Being in a new home can be stressful for the puppy, which is why you shouldn’t force him to eat. The puppy will also realize that he doesn’t have competition at the food bowl, because he is away from his litter. You shouldn’t worry if he doesn’t immediately eat, as it will take him some time.

Once your puppy has slept through the night, you should take him outside and let him relieve himself, then bring him in and give him some food. You should also plan feedings throughout the day, such as the morning, middle of the day, then at night. Once you have planned feedings, you should make sure that you stick to this plan so that your puppy will get used to it.

Keep in mind that the last feeding of the day doesn’t necessarily need to be set in stone. You should always aim to feed your puppy at least a half an hour before you head to bed, so that you can take him outside after eating. If you time it just right every night, you can feed your Golden, take him out to use the bathroom, and still have plenty of time to get ready for bed. At night, when you sleep, you should have puppy pads or newspapers in an area that your Golden is familiar with so he can use the bathroom if he can’t get you to take him out.

First the first few weeks, your Golden will eat a little bit of the food. Once he has reached 8 weeks of age, he should be on dry food with a little bit of warm water added to it. The best way to feed is to keep adding a little bit of warm water to the food, and let the pup eat until he is finished. If you continue to do this throughout feedings, your Golden will begin to eat all of his portion.

Keep in mind that you should never rush him, or change anything about the way he feeds. Golden Retrievers will eat their share, although it will take them a bit of time to develop the proper eating habits. As the puppy gets older, his stomach will grow and he will begin to eat more. During this time, you won’t need to add any water to his food. Golden Retrievers are a truly unique breed, a breed that loves to be fed - and craves attention. If you stick to your plan when your puppy is little - he will be a healthy eater as he gets older.